Use A Hard Frost To Kill Wax Moth In Stored Frames With No Chemicals
- Laurence Edwards
- 1 hour ago
- 4 min read
Wax moth can absolutely ruin a stack of stored brood comb and what makes it worse is that most people only react once they spot the damage, by which point the frames are already on the way out.
I want to show you a simple winter trick that costs nothing, uses no chemicals, and works brilliantly if you get a proper hard frost. This is one of those rare moments in beekeeping where nature hands you a free solution. You just have to use it properly.
Killing wax moth
In a good colony, wax moth is more like a clean up crew than a villain. Strong bees patrol the comb, remove intruders, and keep things tight. Wax moth only really gets a foothold when there are gaps, weak areas, or stored equipment sitting idle.
The real danger zone is stored comb, especially:
Old brood frames
Frames with pollen
Frames with debris or cocoon residue
Dark comb that has had multiple rounds of brood
That mix is basically a perfect wax moth buffet. Once larvae get established, they can web it up fast and turn usable frames into a mess.
The mistake most beekeepers make
Most people treat wax moth when it becomes visible. They open a stored box, see webbing or tunnelling, and then panic. They reach for chemicals or fumigation, or they start trying to salvage frames that are already halfway gone.
The better approach is to get ahead of it. If you kill wax moth before the storage period really begins, you stop the whole cycle before it gets momentum.
Why a hard frost works so well
Wax moth hates cold. A proper sharp frost can kill wax moth at every stage:
Eggs
Larvae
Pupae
Adults
But the key is this: the cold has to penetrate the comb long enough to do the job.
A mild chilly night where you can stand outside in a jumper is not what I mean. You want the kind of cold that freezes puddles and makes everything feel stiff and icy.
If you do not get that proper frost, this method is not reliable. In that case, you need a better storage setup rather than hoping cold will do the work.
Which frames are most at risk
Not all frames are equal when it comes to wax moth. Honey only comb, especially fresh and dry comb, is generally low risk. It is not their first choice, although they will still go for it if nothing else is around.
Frames that have had brood in them are the danger frames. Even if they only had a round or two of brood, that darker comb and any debris makes them a target. If you have a box with mixed frames, the brood comb in the middle is usually where wax moth starts.
The simplest setup if you have sheltered outdoor space
If you have an awning, lean to, or any sheltered area where rain cannot get in, you can store supers and frames outside all winter.That means when the frost hits, your equipment is already in position to get the benefit.
The big warning here is vermin. If frames are accessible, mice, rats, squirrels and anything else will try to get in for the smell of honey and wax.
So if you are storing outside, you have to block access properly and make sure everything is sealed.
What to do if you do not have a shelter
If you do not have a sheltered area, you can still use the frost.
You just do it as a targeted one or two night treatment when the forecast is perfect.
Here is the setup I recommend:
Put an upturned hive roof on the ground as a base.
Stack your super boxes on top.
Make sure nothing can get in or out through gaps.
Put a lid on the top and seal it.
You are basically creating a sealed stack where the outside cold can penetrate the frames, but pests cannot easily get access.
If you get a proper cold snap with no rain forecast, leaving it out overnight can be enough. In colder areas, leaving it out for a couple of nights is even better.
The most important part: what you do after the frost
The frost kills what is there at the time. It does not stop new wax moth coming in later. So after you have used the cold, you must store frames properly.
Keep it airy
Avoid warm, dark, still conditions
Check occasionally through winter
If you can store frames in a way that discourages wax moth settling, you can repeat the frost treatment again during winter whenever a cold snap arrives. The more you do it, the better protected your comb will be.
When not to bother saving comb
There is a point where it is not worth the effort.
If comb is heavily damaged, black with webbing, collapsing, or crawling, do not waste time trying to rescue it.
Bin it, or render down what is left.
Bad comb is not worth saving.
And if you are trying to store large volumes of brood comb in a warm place, frost alone will not carry you all the way through.
You will need a more robust storage system.
Final thoughts
That is it. No chemicals, no fuss, just using a hard frost properly.
If you want access to my full system for keeping bees without it taking over your life, head over to 14dbk.com.
My online course is built to simplify everything you do and keep you moving in the right direction.
Do it once, do it properly, and you will save yourself a lot of mess.
Watch the video here:
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